In a society where we are used to getting everything we want quickly, easily and cheaply, there are concepts that take a backseat. The fashion industry is the second most polluting in the world, so what can we do to be more sustainable?
In any case, the most sustainable thing would always be to stop creating things from scratch and use the rule of the 3 “R”: reduce, recycle and reuse. That is the quickest way to reduce our impact on the world, however, there are situations in which we cannot do any of those things. Being aware and trying to minimize consumption will always be better than nothing.
When I started studying fashion back in 2014, I remember that what struck me the most was studying pattern making and tailoring. Of all the subjects, that seemed the most useful and exciting. However, as soon as I started my first projects, the amount of fabric that was wasted after cutting a garment using a traditional pattern was surprising. Did you know that between 20% and 30% of the fabric is thrown away when creating a garment? From the first moment it seemed like an incredible waste to me. At that time, I didn’t have many savings and my parents paid part of my schooling and materials while I worked. However, with each project, I couldn’t stop seeing all my money ending up in the trash.
In my second year, I remember a teacher who presented us with a super interesting project. Creating a garment from a Zero Waste pattern. None of my classmates seemed excited about it, but it resonated in a special way for me, it seemed like the solution to all my problems, and indeed, in a way it was. That was the first time I heard about the concept of zero waste at the tender age of 19.
I started to scour the internet for any information on the subject, unfortunately there wasn’t much on the internet at the time and the little I could find were articles by Holly McQuillan, obviously I bought her book and from there my adventure in this world started. I began to integrate the zero waste philosophy into all areas of my life, although it is certainly complicated and I don’t think it’s good to obsess, especially when you have a business it is inevitable to create waste in some way.
First YNHOIA Collection in 2019
After my last year of fashion school and my final thesis (which I placed first in my class) inspired by a dystopian world, I made all the designs with natural dyes based on the peels of various fruits and plants and using cotton and linen fabrics, as well as reusing second-hand garments for several pieces in the collection. After presenting my final work, I knew what values I wanted to instill in YNHOIA, one of the most important: The use of recycled materials, fabrics as natural as possible and making use of zero-waste patterns when I can.
The first collection I launched was called VIKALPA, a few unique garments made from second-hand clothes dyed with the avocado peel and pit. If you remember this lauch you deserve a hug and a kiss from me! You were here since the very beginning.
How does YNHOIA implement a sustainable philosophy?
What I really think makes a brand more sustainable is having the possibility of having control over everything that happens within it, trying to make all the processes as centralized as possible. In the case of YNHOIA, it was born in my parents’ house and today (February 2025) I am still alone in charge of all the processes of the brand. This guarantees that everything was done in the way and with the values that I want.
What does this mean? That from the first idea and sketch, the search for materials and suppliers, the creation of the pattern of a garment, the cutting and sewing, the web design process, marketing on social networks, customer service, photography and editing of online content, dyeing of the garments and quality control, to the packaging of your shipment, everything goes through my hands almost exclusively. This means that the processes are minimal and controlled to provide a quality and sustainability that I am satisfied with.
From zero waste to low waste
I innocently started the brand focused on creating zero waste patterns. In reality, over the years, I have realized that by carrying out so many processes on my own, I do not always have the necessary time to research and optimize my pattern making. Therefore, although not all of my designs are currently zero waste, they are low waste. The few scraps I obtain are reused for unique patched garments or for stuffing another garment or accessory.
In addition, most of the fabrics are deadstock, which helps to ensure that these do not end up in the trash. They are usually rolls of fabric from leftovers of major brands that are no longer in trend and will not be used in future collections.
Fully zero waste designs: DUNA cardigan, TERYA pants, ZHEI pants, ADER top, BAKLA robe, MOR poncho, BERE cardigan, KUFUGO kimono, IRTZ multipurpose garment, HARI pants, WAHO pants, PÁDAK skirt, MEKA sweatshirt, CROTO top, VERBER hooded scarf and all the accessories.
Made to order
Another way to be sustainable with my brand is to make orders on demand. I don’t usually keep my collections or garments in stock, when I receive an order I make everything upon demand, hence the sometimes long delivery periods. This practice simply helps to avoid having a bunch of unsold garments collecting dust or ending up in the landfill as happens with large-scale businesses. That’s why I love slow fashion.
Multipurpose garments
This idea has always seemed original to me. Perhaps the most sustainable way to do fashion is to simply get out of your comfort zone, think outside the box and wear and use clothes you already have in ways you wouldn’t have thought of. Imagine the possibilities! That’s why I also love creating multipurpose designs like the IRTZ garment!